Ivybridge to Hickaton Hill

With Anya starting a new job shortly, we’d taken the opportunity to take some holiday and decided it should be possible to walk the Two Moors Way, a 100 mile route from the southern tip of Dartmoor National Park at Ivybridge, to the north of Exmoor National Park at Lynmouth. We thought that if we planned for wild-camping and self-sufficiency then it should be possible regardless of the uncertainty surrounding what would and wouldn’t be open. 

Yesterday we booked our train tickets to Ivybridge for the start of the Two Moors Way. In an unusual reversal of roles, I’d opted for frugality and booked the earlier train, saving us 50%, but departing much earlier.

We woke up at 5:30 and after a quick shower and breakfast left for Temple Meads, catching the 06:44 direct train to Ivybridge. It was mostly empty, but we still wore our masks as required.

Leaving the train at Ivybridge around 9am, we struggled briefly with the indecision about what to wear in the light, intermittent drizzle. Eventually opting for a rain coat, but no waterproof trousers we hit the road. After a sort walk from the station we turned right into Dartmoor National Park, and onto a land rover track which we’d end up following for most of the morning.

Further up the cloud was heavier and although we could see ahead of us, there was little we could see in the way of scenery. Occasionally the track would give way to river and we’d have to detour round the edge.

For lunch we managed to shelter behind an old wall of a former industrial building, sheltering from the wind while we tucked into our sandwiches.

Back on the route, the cloud had lifted and we had a little more of a view over the moorland. A hill appeared into view, which we thought resembled more the pointy volcanic peaks of Iceland than the rolling hills behind it. On inspection of the map, however we found it was instead a disused spoil heap of the Red Lake China Clay Works, now camouflaged into the backdrop.

We didn’t walk too much further that afternoon. The next section of the route will take us through Holne, and outside of Dartmoor’s  permitted wild camping area so we opted for a shorter day, instead of one that would have been too long. It also eased us gently back into hiking.

Hickaton Hill to Hameldown Beacon

We woke up to calm and sunny skies and after attempting to dry out the tent and our boots we packed up and moved on. As we contoured the hill some lovely patchwork fields came into view. I suppose our first real view of the trip so far! We headed towards the fields and down into valley crossing a pretty little stream.

On our way into Scorriton we had to stop to give way to some cows. We then ended up in a procession for the next two kilometres with the farmer in front, then the cows, then another farmer behind to chivvy them along, then us, then a car. It got even more complicated in the village as our procession had to navigate the bin lorry. Eventually after what felt like quite a long time we got to a T junction and the cows and farmers turned right whilst we turned left towards Holne.

The route got a little hillier from here, we passed through picturesque Holne and into Holne woods where we followed the River Dart for a while. After stopping to make use of the public conveniences at New Bridge Marsh we had the first big decision of the day, "Do we get an ice-cream from the ice-cream van?" It could possibly be our only chance for the whole day but in the end we decided it was too early and we hadn't earned it yet. New Bridge Marsh has lots of lovely picnic spots and a rather dangerous looking rope swing but we carried on up onto Aish Tor before stopping for lunch.

Continuing on to Bel Tor Corner we had another opportunity for ice-cream and this time thought we had earned it. The afternoon's walk consisted of small hamlets and pretty woodland before we had to decide whether to take the route passing through Widicombe in the Moor or to take the route which followed the ridgeline of the adjacent hills. We chose the ridge line and stopped to camp close to Hameldown Beacon.

I also learned today that Wuthering Heights is not set in Widecombe in the Moor. I think I have been getting the Kate Bush song confused with Widecombe fair… every day's a school day!

Hameldown Beacon to Fingle Bridge

Our friends, Alex & Lydia, joined as after work on Friday at our camp on Hameldown Beacon. After a catch up we got our heads down and rose in the morning to bright blue skies.

Up reasonably early, but not early enough to miss the first hikers, we were away by 9am. Following the track along and down the the ridge, passing a few mountain bikers (some on ebikes), we met the road. Quite busy with lots of people out and about we continued across the moorland, before leaving that behind and weaving our way through fields and small paths. Stopping under the shade of large tree for lunch, we continued on to Chagford. 

Here we followed the river, with a pleasant breeze, and deviating from the Two Moors Way, we headed for Fingle Bridge. Our detour was necessary for two reasons; firstly it was located near a small section of permitted wild-camping ground within Dartmoor National Park, but secondly there was a pub marked on the map. Uncertain whether it would be open or not we headed through the woodland along the river.

Luckily for us it was open, with a modified (if slightly obtuse) distanced ordering system. However we waited patiently and spent a couple of hours having a few drinks next to the river. A pleasant finale to the days walk.

Afterwards, however, we still had to find somewhere to camp, so we had head up the steep hill behind us. A steeper and longer walk than we’d bargained for but we eventually made it to the top, and found a great little place to camp with views over Chagford and the moors we’d just travelled through. After cooking up our evening meal, we were treated to a lovely sunset before bed.

Fingle Bridge to Black Dog

Today was a long, hot and overambitious day. The plan was to walk my parents house in Puddington (a couple of miles off route) where we could camp in my dad's field. This was already a long 16 mile section from Dewsteignton to Morchard Bishop and we were already off route at the start and were planning to add 4 miles at the end... We set off at half 7, refilled our water at Fingle Bridge and tackled the steep climb into Dewsteignton.

Back on route we headed out of Dartmoor. We actually passed the Peter Randall sculpture of which there is a mirror image of on the edge of Exmoor. However I didn't realise the significance of the boulder with holes in until later when trying to research another random sculpture pictured below of which I can find no record of on the internet.

We had quite a long section on roads today but we ploughed on passing through many fields and farms. Just before lunch we were chased by the first herd of cows. Chased is probably over dramatising it but we were followed to the stile by some over curious young cows who were getting a bit too close for comfort.

The online route guide describes the section between Dartmoor and Exmoor as rarely frequented and we didn't see a single other walker for the whole day. We did however see hundred of cows and sheep and even some alpacas. We eventually reached Morchard Bishop and waved to my old primary school which seems so small now, the route even goes through the school car park. I remember some hikers who were passing through speaking in one of our assemblies once.

We headed towards Morchard Wood but had another field of cows to cross. These again were far too curious and trotted very close behind us as we power walked towards the gate at the far corner. We had already conceded that my dad would collect us from the route at Black Dog so we didn't have to walk 2 miles extra off-route but with spirits low and no water left we made the call to be rescued a few miles earlier. In Puddington we had a lovely BBQ at camp Keatley and my dad had even rigged up a new shower which is perfect for anyone under 5'6". Clean and full of delicious food and cake we tucked in for an early night.

Black Dog to Rackenford

With Anya’s father providing even more excellent hospitality we had sausage & bacon baps for breakfast, cooked on the BBQ, and then he gave us a lift to where we were picked up the day before - with a stop on the way to pickup our laundry (thanks, Yvonne).

So back where we were the day before we set off towards Black Dog, following the footpaths through the fields. From there continuing much the same to Witheridge with a short interlude through Washfood Wood.

Arriving at Witheridge, we stopped at a conveniently located park bench for lunch. From here we continued through fields, before the route continued along the road. Shortly after we took a deviation from the Two Moors Way, towards Rackenford where Anya’s father owns a small patch of woodland. It’s here we were going to camp for the night.

Anya’s parents also dropped by in the late afternoon to drop of some supplies for dinner and the next few days, with some bonus crisps and cake for dinner!