Falmouth to Portholland

We left the comfort of the Cutty Sark b+b after a quick bacon sandwich. Before today's walk would begin we had to catch two ferries, the first to St Mawes the second to Place. We were 2/3 of the people on the first ferry and the only ones on the second.

Our friend Matt was joining us today, but unfortunately even after a 4.45am start, a broken down train in Truro meant he missed the early ferry but managed to catch us up after a short cut across the headland.

The weather was beautiful today and we passed lots of little beaches where people enjoying the autumn sun and having a swim in the sea.

We pressed on past Portloe to gain a few extra miles, as this was the last water filling opportunity we went to fill up our bottles. However, the sinks were so shallow in the public toilets this wasn't possible. The pub was closed and the only hotel was too posh to hang around in the entrance hall waiting to ask. Luckily Olly managed to ask someone outside their house and we were on our way.

We thought we could probably camp near Portholland as there was only holiday lets on Google maps and it should be pretty quiet. It turned out to be quite a busy place and even after walking out of the village onto the hill a couple followed us. We were wondering if they were going to say something about us wild-camping as we had chatted about it earlier to them but instead they actually just offered to take our photo.

There was however another couple enjoying the sunset with a bottle of wine. After a stalemate of who would leave first, we decided to move to the back of the field, away from the view to not ruin their romantic evening with our pasta cooking. 

Matt had forgotten all his food and utensils so we fed him some of our pasta and he whittled a spork out of a twig.

There was a fantastic sunset and the moon is reflecting beautifully on the sea.

Unfortunately I have not seen any new caterpillars for 2 days, so this picture of lady birds and lady bird larvae (which look like tiny dragons) will have to suffice.

Porthallow to Falmouth

We rose in the dark, and could see the lights of Falmouth in the distance; across the waves.  We made sure we had an early start this morning as low tide was at 8am, and if we could meet Gillian Creek at low tide we could ford across, saving a couple of miles.

We arrived at Gillian Creek at low tide, and had a choice to make. We could use the stepping stones further downstream, which had been described as “so slippery, they’re unused by the locals”, or ford across in “ankle-deep water”. We chose to ford it, although it ended up being slightly deeper than expected. Anya would say more knee-depth.

We had a couple of miles from here until our next river crossing of the Helford River. This time on a ferry. 

We continued along the coastal forest path to Helford. I’d hoped to fine an establishment to serve me a bacon sandwich, but alas there was none. We caught the first ferry of the morning across the river and carried along to path, via a couple of short diversions.

We stopped for lunch at Maenporth beach café. It even felt sunny and warm enough for an ice cream.

The next section of path to Falmouth was easy going and we made quick progress, reaching our bed for the night; The Cutty Sark pub.

Portholland to Duporth

We woke up to the sound of pheasants crashing through the woodland. They startle extremely easily, and then fly off, ungainly, through the vegetation.

As we hiked up the first hill, we passed through a large temperature gradient, where we were suddenly in warm sea mist, instead of the cold valley air. As the sun rose over the headland it quickly warmed up, and we reached Dodman Point. Here a large crucifix had been erected as a navigational aid for seafarers. We then walked round the other side of the peninsula to Gorran Haven.

We’d hoped to find a café here for some breakfast, but unfortunately the one listed on Google was closed. As we were about to set off and continue on, disappointed; Anya had found a bakery, which it turned also serve breakfasts. Exactly what we wanted. 3 Full Cornish breakfasts later, we left Gorran Haven.

Just before we got to Mevagissey, Matt spotted a seal, basking in the sea. Very well camouflaged. We continued through Mevagissey, a small bustling town; and headed for Pentewan.

At Pentewan we stopped for a drink and slice of cake. We then continued on to Duporth, where we had a B&B booked for the night. The path was rather undulating, with many steep ups and downs, following the edge of the cliff, between the fenced grassy fields. We left Matt just before we finished, he was cutting across to collect his car in St. Austell.

Duporth to Polpero(ish)

After a fantastic picnic breakfast at our Airbnb we left Duporth and headed towards Charlestown.

The route was much flatter than the previous evening and we passed lots of holiday homes, empty beaches and quite a busy golf course. We then walked through Par which is a bit of an eyesore as most of the coast & town is taken up by china clay works.

After Par the route got a little hillier as we ascended onto Gribbin Head, here stands a Greco Gothic Tower that functions as a day marker to aid navigation into the rocky harbour of Fowey.

After continuing around the coastline we stopped in Fowey for lunch which was pretty busy as it's now half term. We got the passenger ferry over to Polruan and continued onwards.

We decided to stop for a wildcamp site a little outside of Polpero as the path onwards looks very cliff edge like on the OS map. Just thought to add it has been beautifully sunny again today! Fingers crossed this weather stays.

Unfortunately no more caterpillars so this Bloody-nosed beetle will have to do.

Polperro(ish) to Portwrinkle

We left our camping spot at dawn, and saw a wonderful sunrise as we walked the couple of miles along the cliff side to Polperro.  Polperro was a very small fishing town, with winding streets around the harbour.  We waited 10 minutes for a café to open and then tucked into a full Cornish.

From Polperro the path changes from following the cliff side to running through grassy fields. From here we took the road into Looe. 

Looe was quite busy, presumably because of the half term. We contemplated fording the river, but as it wasn’t mentioned in the guidebook or the internet we decided not to. Instead following the road down to the bridge, and then back along the other side. 

Out of Looe, we followed residential streets and through a holiday park to regain the path along the cliff top. A couple of miles lead us into Seaton, where we stopped for a bite of lunch.

After Seaton we followed the road, once again, through Downderry. It looked as if there was a possibility for using the beach at low tide, instead of the road, but as it was high tide we didn’t investigate further. 

Once off the road and onto the cliff top we made our way to our B&B in Portwrinkle. Our host for the evening graciously offered to cook an evening meal for us, which we gratefully accepted.